Antique Vintage Deco Retro Style 14k Gold Sweetheart Puffy Akoya Pearl Bracelet

Description

We have similar Sweetheart and Retro items, which would pair nicely with this piece, up for auction this week. To view in separate listings, please visit our store and search "Sweetheart" or "Retro" under our auction items.
Listing Description by: Angela A.
The Piece
Auction Estimate:
,000
-
,000
Age Circa:
Vintage Retro style
Markings:
"14k PBD" on the toggle bar, tested, and guaranteed
Country of Origin:
United States
Brand:
Peter Brams Designs Ltd.
Gram Weight:
7.1 grams
Metal Type:
14k yellow gold
Item Weight Value:
-- (value all inclusive weight)
Material:
Silk string
Main Stone:
Saltwater Akoya pearl
Main Stone Measurements/Color:
Length:
5 mm to 5.3 mm
Width
: 4.74 mm to 5.11 mm
Color:
lustrous white hue
Accent Stone:
--
Accent Stone Measurements/Color:
--
Stone Treatment:
The stone(s) appear to be untreated, but we are not certified gemologists. Stone(s) have been tested and guaranteed using a professional Presidium Duo refractive, heat, and hardness tester.
Stone Cuts:
Naturally off-round and polished
Item Measurements:
Wearable length:
7.50"
Bracelet Type:
Beaded
Closure/Clasp Type:
Toggle clasp
Link Type:
Beads on silk string
Notable Features:
This bracelet was handmade in the style of the Retro period of the Art Deco era. The bracelet consists of a strand of silk upon which saltwater Akoya pearl beads have been strung, as well as a 14k yellow gold clasp and puffy charm in the sweetheart style. The use of so many valuable, lustrous pearls in this bracelet is an excellent homage to the Hollywood Regency style which rose to popularity during the Retro period. Eager to show off their wealth and style, Hollywood celebrities and socialites during this time would adorn themselves with glamorous jewelry, usually featuring many colorful precious stones. This bracelet was made in the style of Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, and Tiffany designs that were influencing the Hollywood Regency style, making the viewer think of the likes of Ava Gardner and Katharine Hepburn. This bracelet was created by Peter Brams Designs, a contemporary jewelry company.
Thirty-five saltwater Akoya pearls adorn the bracelet, all of which, as the name suggests, would have been hand-harvested off the coast of Japan before being imported to be made into jewelry, indicating that this bracelet belonged to a wealthy socialite who could afford the high price tag.
Each pearl is cream in hue, displaying a stunning luster as light hits the stones from different angles. After being drilled through the middle and polished, the pearls were strung on a white silk string. A 14k yellow gold heart charm in the sweetheart style also adorns the strand, which is a hollow, rare piece known as "puffy" jewelry. This puffy charm would have been created using the repousse metalworking technique to hand-hammer the yellow gold from the opposite side into its raised design.
Completing the bracelet is a 14k yellow gold toggle clasp, the vibrancy of the gold a lovely complement to the cream Akoya pearls. A classic modern tribute to Hollywood Regency jewelry from the Retro period, this bracelet would make a valuable addition to any antique jewelry collection. Don't miss your chance to preserve this piece of cultural history.
Damage:
Age appropriate wear. There are several dents to the puffy heart charm, which does not affect wear.
*This listing is for the item only. All display boxes and/or photography props do not come with your purchase.*
The History
The Art Deco era is famous for being the "Gatsby" or "Roaring Twenties" era. A lot of gorgeous and timeless designs in jewelry came out of this period. Jewelry from this period was most often crafted between 1920 and 1935. Art Deco jewelry sometimes featured white gold or platinum, geometric designs, European cut diamonds, filigree, and calibre cut stones that are specifically cut to fit the design of the piece. During the Art Deco period jewelers often made jewelry upon custom order, this would often take weeks to months to completely craft by hand.
Retro jewelry refers to pieces created in the 1940s and 1950s. This was a period during which jewelry designers were largely influenced by the changes stemming from World War II. These designs reflect an infusion of futuristic vision with elements inspired by preceding periods, encompassing a variety of gemstones, shapes, and materials. Materials used commonly in Retro jewelry are gold, gold alloys, and silver as the wartime put a restriction on the use of platinum. Designs can be masculine, geometric and modern, or softer, more feminine and floral.
Sweetheart jewelry was an intensely romantic and patriotic fashion that began with World War I and remained through the end of World War II. Soldiers would gift these pieces of jewelry to their wives and sweethearts who remained at home while they were fighting overseas. Many materials and metals were rationed during the great wars, so these pieces were made of alternative materials, such as wood or plastic. Silver was not a rationed material, and was used to create higher quality pieces. This type of jewelry was a reminder and a promise to fighting soldiers all over the world.
Akoya saltwater pearls are cultured from the Akoya oyster and can be found primarily in Japan and China. They are known for their beautiful round shape and exquisite luster that sets them apart from many other types of pearls. They are usually white or cream in color but can have rose or silver undertones. During the Art Deco era, Akoya pearls were rare, expensive to own, and reserved for the richest of the rich.
Puffy jewelry is a name given to hollow repousse pieces, typically little heart charms. Puffy hearts came into fashion in the late 1800s and were popular until the 1950s. Today, puffy jewelry is highly sought after, but very rare to find because they were difficult to make in the first place and were easily damaged due to their hollow cores.
Repoussé began as an ancient metalworking technique dating as far back as the 3rd century BC, involving malleable metal that was hammered onto the reverse side to create an image on the front. Examples are found all over the world; Greece, Egypt, and even the Hopewell periods in the American southeast. Reverse side hammering was also used to add detail to the front, creating intricate patterns using grooves, indentations, and channeling. The piece was then carefully polished to create a hollow, eye-catching treasure.
Domestic US
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